I am often referred as a “good person” coz I’m involved in development cooperation. This is just partly correct. Let me clear this thing up, none of the organizations, nor do the individuals, operate without personal interest. That is fine as long as the participation serves a mutual purpose. I’ve given attention to a book lately written by Dambisa Moyo. Its title is “Dead Aid – Why Aid Is Not Working and How There Is a Better Way for Africa”. She argues that foreign aid has harmed Africa and that it should be phased out.

The book polarizes opinion. Her statements aren’t new; some of them are even outdated. However, large media coverage can raise the publics awareness. Public may reconsider development aid. Moyo is of the opinion that development aid creates a negative incentive system. Countries become dependent and aid conceivably promotes corruption. So she advances a view that the main reason of the countries misery is development aid. Instead of claiming cutting development aid, I suggest asking if there’s the possibility to give help which promotes self reliance.

However, it maintains the status quo instead eliminating the root cause of poverty. We might overestimate the impact of development aid. The Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development published a chart which shows three segments. The segments stand for good governance, politics of the developed countries and official development assistance the so called development cooperation. Interestingly, development cooperation is just in the position to support the two other segments.

Governmental and non-governmental organizations have been reforming projects to improve their service. There is a hope for change if national and international policies are harmonized. Good governance has to protect investors from official arbitrariness in economics. If governments of developing countries assure a reliable law and tax system, national and international businesses will increase.

Down to the present day developed countries grant subsidies to their business and economic sectors. Half of the European Union’s budget is used for the “Common Agricultural Policy” system. This makes domestic goods artificially competitive against imports from example developing countries. Subsidies distort markets and destroy poor countries’ opportunities. We keep those countries from economic growth with one hand, and donor a large amount as development aid with the other one. If we want, in the long term, a juster world and prosperity for everyone, we may not support such policies.

The weltwärts program contributes, at least in part, to development cooperation. “Global learning nurtures a new generation of development workers. It enhances inter-cultural understanding and helps increase awareness and acceptance within society of how development policy issues impact on our future.” Weltwärts will lead to success if the organizations constantly improve service.

Organizations should reconsider their projects and responsibilities. Most of the organizations don’t really know about their partner organizations projects. They send the volunteers abroad and blame the partner for all sorts of problems. German institutions have to ensure a proper work and a proper contract with the partner about hosting and liabilities in the forehand of sending.

Organizations should consider new ways for recruiting volunteers. German educational system is diverse. Many roads lead to success in career. Till this day most volunteers just graduated from high-school (German: Gymnasium). Many of those lack of seriousness of mind due to their little experience of life. Organizations should attract more people from in-company-training and part-time vocational schooling. The foreign language skills are competitive. Those recruits are well grounded in technical knowhow and/or commerce. It’s the mixture of people of different backgrounds that matters.

Inter-cultural exchange

Weltwärts-assignments can be to any of the countries in the OECD list of developing countries. Viet Nam is changing from a centrally planned economy to a socialist-oriented market economy since the economic reforms Đổi mới (renovation) initiated in 1986. The economy is booming. However, transition economies often lead to increased inequality of incomes and wealth, dramatic and ongoing inflation, pervasive corruption in both the public and private sectors, and a fall in GDP.

We also need a change in peoples mind. The antisocial behavior must come to an end. Inter-cultural exchange can support this process. Young volunteers share live with Vietnamese. We can tell others about problems in our society and may show methods of resolution which people can apply to everyday life.

Most organizations, including mine, send volunteers to English training centers or Universities in Viet Nam for teaching the regular school’s curriculum. We support a system which gives money to privileged. Most likely foreign volunteers get even paid for it. The common salary for untrained volunteers far exceeds the wages of qualified Vietnamese teachers.

I have never accepted funds for my volunteer activities. I have never skipped any task. I just did as I consider volunteering best. I dedicated the past two years to inter-cultural exchange. I left my heart in Viet Nam. Thank all of you for your contribution to our good work. See you soon!

We do have fireworks at selected public places. They are governmental run since private fireworks is outlawed for more than 15 years. However, they are pretty good! Unfortunately rain last night, so that I couldn’t see much of the fireworks from my friend’s house in which I stay over New Year.

Vietnamese New Year is also the time for family gatherings and traditions. It is a public holiday and the most sacred time of the year. So people won’t go to work for at least three days. The few people who do business raise the prices for services and goods. Especially hotels and restaurants are expensive at this time. Therefore we’ll cook more often at home and perhaps celebrate my birthday here, too.

The weather in January was cool and rainy. The grey sky let me feel less interest in teaching. Luckily most of my students went to military basic training. In Viet Nam all students, male and female, have to attend a military training of at least four weeks. So I decided going on holiday for two weeks. I asked another volunteer to take over my other classes for that time. He agreed and I left gloomy Ha Noi.

There are basically four different dialects in modern Vietnamese language: Northern Vietnamese (Ha Noi); North-central (Vinh); Central Vietnamese (Hue); and Southern Vietnamese (Saigon). The different dialects follow basically the same grammar but differ in their sound systems and some vocabulary.

A movement of people between North and South began in the mid-20th century. Due to that, and perhaps nationwide television consumption, people may understand different dialects. However, dialects are also a part of culture and the cultural differences are huge. The common stereotypes for the different regions are: the traditional North (home of the socialists?); tasty cuisine for the Central provinces; and the ambitious richer South.

Work the truth out for yourself

Well, I haven’t stayed in other provinces for long time yet. Therefore I shouldn’t really judge about it. I love my Ha Noi community; even though Ha Noi is not really famous for friendliness. The people are easy to temper! The more Southern I went the friendlier I was welcomed. People were more relaxed and warm hearted. Perhaps my view is wrong! If you have a different opinion let me know about it and leave a comment.

I went on holiday with two friends of mine. We first stopped in Da Nang, headed then to Ho Chi Minh City and finally to Phu Quoc Island. It was nice to see the South again which I haven’t visited for more than three years. Ho Chi Minh City, “the economic capital”, is modern compared to Ha Noi, the political capital. The city has many high buildings, wide streets, and plenty of shops and supermarkets. The traffic is less bad and the air is much cleaner.

I like the Vietnamese street food and drinking culture. People sit and gather on tiny plastic stools and tables. The people in Ha Noi drink much tea on the streets. The people in Ho Chi Minh City drink coffee with sweet condensed milk.

Live responsibly, and enjoy life

I was really happy that the Southern Vietnamese could understand my Northern dialect. So I could handle most matters in Vietnamese language and I didn’t have to use English much. The holiday was quite relaxed. We spent most of the time discovering places and trying the local specialties. We also hired motorbikes for off-road trips on Phu Quoc Island. The isle is mountainous and the mostly unpaved roads lead through green forests. Besides we often stopped at some nice beaches for a swim.

After a nice holiday we arrived safely back to our house in Ha Noi. The chilly rainy weather remained for two more weeks. Then, in February, the weather changed suddenly. The thermometer showed around 30°C. I spent much time outside for a walk and some drinks. Though cloudy sky most of the day but sunny about noon. The spring has come! On the other hand mattresses, clothes and wooden furniture started to go moldy on account of the high air humidity.

I should reconsider my training schedule! I have been running a bakery contest lately. There are roughly 30 different places on my list. I’ve been picking out one bakery each day. Perhaps I’ll change to daily workout instead of three times weekly. Meanwhile our house got more crowded. The current number of volunteers amounts to twelve. Since then more and more people gather to cook German dishes.

The visit of the manager provoked primarily confusion and bad blood. KUE occupies the moral high ground. They demand with might and main their requests what they think is written in the cooperation agreement. Perverse if you get look behind the scenes. I had a glance at the Vietnamese version of the cooperation agreement. I won’t give too many articles of the document away. However it lacks important details.

The basic conditions determined that 35 German-Volunteer-Students (whatever that’s supposed to mean) assist NTU in their matters, especially in aiding the students with their English- and German homework. Criticism goes to both sides. How can they focus on assisting the students’ homework, which is principally in Vietnamese language, in the fields of Finance and Banking, Accounting, Economics, Architecture and Industrial design!

Who's to blame?

I value KUE’s enthusiasm. However it has not much of a meaning if no one pays attention to weltwärts intention and especially to the legislation of sending and receiving country. No sending organization should attract a great number of volunteers to a new project which offers work for only a few. If so, it needs experience to provide quality service in finding a new project.

An organization must be familiar in dealing with volunteers. They must know the expatiations of partner organizations and projects. They need in essential the skill to implement the relevant guideline. KUE should link up with other organizations. It will quicken the learning process.

Let me give you an example of the latest chaotic planning. The new group of volunteers expected to volunteer in Ha Noi. Conversely they were told after their arrival at Ha Noi’s airport that they are going to volunteer in Hai Phong City, 100 km away from Ha Noi. What happened? Well, KUE unexpectedly concluded an agreement with another private university without informing the involved volunteers. The worst is yet to come. It doesn’t look like they will ever have a meaningful work to do there.

Perhaps a volunteer’s life

One of the substantial change is concerning to my accommodation. KUE rent a house without letting anyone of us know. They wanted to offer housing for the old and new volunteer group. They said they couldn’t withdraw from the contract. As a result, we left our house in My Dinh and moved to Vinh Phuc at the South-West end of Westlake.

The new area is cleaner and less noisy than the previous one. The house is just 5 minutes away from NTU by motorbike. It offers seven spacious rooms, a big living room and a kitchen. I even have a single room with balcony and a private bathroom. The cost of living, especially for dining outside is more expensive.

Nevertheless it is interesting to explore the area around, to check out shops and restaurants. Sometimes neighbors are interested in a little chat. One of my neighbors, he’s a professor, surprised me most. He just completed his contract at an international university in Germany. The interesting part of the story comes now. The university is not located in a major city. Nope, the university he taught at is in my little city Bruchsal in Baden-Württemberg. What a coincidence!

Unlike to others I am still happy with my work. Some volunteers are discontented with their projects. Instead of improving the situation they bore the situation or just stayed at home. Finally they will work soon in different projects or even for a different partner organization.

I indicate ten-thousand is ambitious. I question if volunteer services are able to carry out the intended development-political dimension of weltwärts competently. Besides I wonder why we are planning to send so many abroad. Can we guarantee quality then? Or does quantity count more than quality? Are the projects sustainable? Volunteers come, stay and leave. Is there a handing over to the new generation of volunteers? How to monitor the success of the projects?

Is a sending program able to cultivate intercultural exchange? Wouldn’t it be nice to use money of the 70 million Euros public fund for receiving people from the host countries in return? Are we so proud of ourselves that we think we don’t need any help from people of developing countries? Isn’t the impact of intercultural exchange on both sides higher by doing so?

Source BMZ

The accessible volunteer services offered by the common organizations are pricey. The weltwärts- program wants to give young people of any social background the chance to participate in development work. It is financed by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ). However, the BMZ is not in charge for sending. Germany’s numerous aid and sending organizations send and call for funds.

The program attracted a good deal of attention in media. Thousands of people have applied for it yet. Most of the institutions complain about excessive demand. An even bigger problem is on side of the mostly poorer receiving organizations. As a matter of fact many have to hire staff to get on with the crowd of foreign volunteers.

The new centralized structure of financing also attracts organizations which have never sent volunteers before nor are experienced enough to implement the regulations. There are no clear criteria or quality requirements regarding the sending organization or the receiving partner organization.

Source BMZ

The sending organizations should reflect on a few points before agreeing to a cooperation contract. What benefit will my partner have of the volunteers? Is it about the money, about the employees, about intercultural exchange, the gate to the world, about recognition? What do you think is the reason why they co-operate with you? How do you plan project placements? In case they really need a partner, are you able to offer them a service according to their needs? Can you offer development cooperation and the needed resources?

weltwärts goal to get people of any social background into action hasn’t worked thus far. Most of the sent volunteers are from the middleclass. The large majority takes a gap year after high school before they begin their studies at University. Community service is in my opinion worthwhile to anyone. However, weltwärts made it also too simple to touch up ones curriculum. We perhaps run the risk that people misuse this service.

We shouldn’t forget that volunteers are also representatives of their home country. How can we avoid that volunteers cause harm in development cooperation? I have read, seen and listened to a lot of weltwärts-volunteers in the past two years. Gosh, I personally think that more culturally thick-skinned, spoiled and intolerant volunteers take part in weltwärts than in any other program. Several are demanding, complaining but show little initiative for self-help. Even worse is their double moral; argumentative about attitudes of others but also out of the question in their own matters. Perhaps a long vacation financed by public.

The way to success?

At last my midterm evaluation. The main reason why I applied at KUE, the German sending organization, is that it is run by Vietnamese. Their website gave a tempting outlook to the development work in Viet Nam. In the end it turned out to be much different.

They are inexperienced; so I turned a blind eye and remained patient. There have been many issues in the past. I believe in the process of learning. They have to improve in particular their communication and planning skills. Furthermore they need schooling in weltwärts-guideline. Their work routine needs to be longsighted to lead to success. At the current this organization is not certified enough for sending volunteers abroad.

Unfortunately they have been also unlucky in choosing their partner organization. They signed the cooperation contract with NTU, a Vietnamese private university founded in 2008, in Germany. They agreed on sending 35 volunteers to a university which they had never seen. They were convinced that the amount of students would increase from around twenty to a few hundred. What’s more they took it for granted that the volunteers will have an 8 hours working day by assisting the student’s in German and English homework.

NTU`s dealing behaviors on the other hand are questionable. Transparency is missing. All in all they couldn’t keep the contract.

"Can't see the forest for all the trees"

My project itself is satisfactory to me. Some volunteers and I run an English Club at NTU twice a week. We teach according to books, play games and make friends. I occasionally teach Finance and Banking focusing on improving listening and speaking skills of my students. Furthermore I train staff of NTU and Ladeco Group in English three times a week.

It is knowledge transfer, improving life skills and sharing life. Educational cooperation cannot be put into a fixed schedule of 40h a week. Nope, it happens 24h a day in daily life. I don’t know where and to what volunteering will lead me one day but I know that I am quite privileged.

Here’s my little very own Ha Noi alphabet:

Activities

If you’d like to meet me in my spare time, you perhaps find me in a food stall. Actually, I pretty much eat anything. However, I pay attention to a rather healthy well-balanced diet. I do sport three to four times a week. I often go out for billiards, karaoke or just a drink with friends. Moreover, I love to ride motorbike in the city or the countryside.

Bald, beard and big

As a matter of fact, I am just average and unremarkable in Germany. Conversely, it is true for me here in Viet Nam. In comparison to my volunteer’s colleagues as well as the average Vietnamese I am rather tall and big. (1,82m/81kg).

Chaos

Self-directed thinking is not encouraged. This can lead to a range of problems in everyday life. …traffic madness, inefficient work routine and antisocial behavior…

Dust

A recent survey run by the municipal Natural Resources and Environment Department showed dust concentrations were above allowable levels on about 60% of Ha Noi’s roads. Overloaded and uncovered lorries and tip trucks were blamed for 95 per cent of the dust. They also failed to meet hygiene regulations. Industrial activities, transportation, urban construction and residents’ activities were other contributors.

English-Lessons

Germany as Europe’s biggest economy plays an important role in world trade. It is also known for poetry, culture and research. On the contrary German is not a favorite language for foreign students. English, the universal language, attracts logically more people. My Vietnamese students are perhaps better educated in the use of English grammar than me. As a result I provide the main part of my volunteer activities in English. I mediate life skills and improve their pronunciation and communication skills.

Human capital

There are no stupid people on this planet. Anybody (!) can contribute something. We all have talents. We just have to discover our abilities. I preferably work in a self-determined employment with low hierarchy level.

Idealism

I don’t receive any reward and surely no money. A job that pays well…I am an idealist and follow pragmatic purposes. Pragmatism keeps my feet on the ground and lifts me up when I am down.

Joy

I appreciate each day, even the tough ones, in Ha Noi. Always look on the bright side of life.

KUE

My sending organization.

Language

Vietnamese grammar is rather simple. It is a tonal language and this makes it difficult to learn for western people. I am rarely forced using Vietnamese in my everyday life. Hence, I am good in small talks but lost in profound conversations. I am employed at the German Vietnamese vocational training center. My boss and my colleagues address me in German. My Vietnamese friends’ English is fluent. The students of NTU speak fair English.

Men

A men’s life is great in Viet Nam. The average Vietnamese is a prole and a strict ruler. Forget what you’ve heard about emancipation.  However, men and women have learnt to deal with it. They fled to a dream world of kitschy romanticism stuck between heart pain and the search for the everlasting love.

Nguyen Trai University

The university I volunteer at. It’s located at 266 Doi Can.

Oi gioi oi (Oi troi oi)

Oi gioi oi, often translated with “Oh my god “, is a common phrase when something goes wrong. I use it a couple of times each day.

Pronunciation

Vietnamese use a modified roman alphabet of 12 vowels and 17 consonants. The standard Vietnamese language has six tones. Each tone is a meaningful and integral part of the syllable with which it is associated; every syllable must have a tone. The tones are indicated in conventional Vietnamese spelling by marks over or under single or main stressed vowels in vowel clusters. Thus, it is really important to learn the word with the appropriate markers correctly.

Quality

My opinion abot Ha Noi’s livability is conflicting. Services are any time available and the costs are low. The city provides a sufficient assortment of international goods and cultural events. On the other hand prices for imported goods are high and Vietnamese products haven’t reached International standards. Furthermore I extremely dislike the dirt and desperately miss trees, flowers and parks.

Rumors

I have really been surprised, also very often depressed, with the loads of prejudices I am confronted each day. I have to fight against ignorance, racism and people’s closed minds.

Safety/Security/Crime

Vietnam is very safe. Violent crime is rare, at least for me as foreigner. However, regardless to national or no national, scam is very common in Viet Nam. Moreover corruption is a big problem.

Traffic

A glorious, deadly, mess! 1,000 new motorcycles and 200 automobiles are added to Hanoi’s traffic each day.

Useful fact

Starring at people is somehow socially accepted! (Perhaps to be discussed in a separate post.)

Weather

Ha Noi has four distinct seasons, with a comparatively chilly winter, a hot and wet summer and pleasant spring and autumn seasons. The smog covers Ha Noi all year around.

(E)xchange

I highly encourage people to get to know different cultures. Intercultural learning is mutual learning. It is exchange of knowledge and ideas. It is fun to make friends with people of a different cultural background.

Yummy

Vietnamese food and drinks are inexpensive and delicious. One of my favorite drinks is simply green tea. Meals aren’t prepared extravagantly. Everything is kept simple. Rice in any variation is a main part of most dishes. They also use a lot of vegetables (often mixed with meat) and fruits. Indeed, many dishes are oily, salty or really sweet. Meat and fish is often just chopped and served with the bone.

Zodiac

Vietnamese zodiac signs represent twelve different types of personalities. The zodiac traditionally begins with the sign of the Rat, then the Water buffalo, Tiger, Cat, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster and finally the Pig.

In Vietnamese/Chinese astrology the animal signs assigned by year represent what others perceive you as being or how you present yourself.

Hence I searched on Internet for a cheaper and more convenient one. I found the most suitable option after a few minutes. What’s more this preference granted me a free baggage allowance of 38 kg. That was good to have – coz I carried along two bags of German chocolate and candy.

I arrived on time after a trouble free short stop in Bangkok, obtained my Visa at the Immigration office desk and picked up my bags from the baggage claim. To my surprise I didn’t see any of the other volunteers who should have landed just a few minutes earlier than me. So I headed alone to the meeting area. I was warmly welcomed by a friendly young Vietnamese man. He drove me to Nguyen Trai University.

There I was introduced to my coordinator Lan. She explained that the other volunteers had missed their connection flight in Bahrain and stuck there for one day. Therefore we postponed the introduction day and I was unexpectedly free. That day I met my old Vietnamese friends.

The private university was founded in 2008. Its main office is in Ladeco Building, a high rise in the heart of Ba Dinh District. The sight from one of the teaching rooms points to Westlake. The lake is surrounded by traditional quarters and new modern Skyscrapers. Motorcycles dwarf from this height. The university is investing in the 340.000 m2 Nguyen Trai educational complex at Ha Dong District and will move to it after completion.

“Nguyen Trai University is striving to become one of the top universities in Viet Nam and the region by achieving international standards in education programs and delivery. It aims at all-round personal development of students with high moral, intellectual, professional standards and sound physical and aesthetic capability, dedicated to the service of the society.”

The schedule doesn’t keep me too busy with just four hours of Vietnamese lessons a day. But the timetable is rather inconvenient with a four hours lunch break. We additionally teach English at Ha Thanh High School. Further projects are in planning and will follow shortly.

The new semester starts this week. Roughly 200 new students will begin their studies at NTU. We will guide and assist them.

Contrary to the original planning we don’t stay in host families yet. All volunteers live in a house 15 minutes afar My Dinh bus station. Either two or three people share a room. The furnishing is reduced to what is absolutely necessary; a thin small foam mattress. (It was worn out after a few days)

We are still young so I don’t complain. However I cannot even think of easy sleep. Our house is opposite the local cultural house. The squawking loudspeaker announcement starts every day at 5.30. At around 6 o’clock people come to play volleyball on the adjoining field.

Therefore my day starts early. The neighboring village offers a sufficient number of delicious Vietnamese street food. We cover the distance to university on foot and by bus in approximately 60 minutes. Though, I prefer the motorbike instead. My aged but fast Honda Dream II takes me to my workplace in 15 minutes.

I am on good terms with the other volunteers. We also have close contact to the students of our university. We have invited them on occasion of mid-autumn festival to our house. We cooked Vietnamese and German specialties and had a great but short time.

The weather is typical for Ha Noi. Some days it is hot and humid other days rainy. The smog irritates the respiratory tract. Accordingly all of us got ill in no time.

The exchange year hasn’t changed, surprisingly, my German daily life. I remember well my recommencement. It is an undeniable fact that I feel great in my familiar environment. However I found myself thinking back about Viet Nam. Some German companions who also volunteered in Viet Nam experienced a similar sentiment. Hence we decided to meet again in Germany. It was easier said than done in a group of different regional provenance and crammed schedules. We finally agreed on a long weekend in March. We’ve had a cracking good time and we felt like in the good old VN-days. Moreover we even cooked Vietnamese dishes; Bun Cha and Nem. It is rather simple to shop for these ingredients in Germany on account of our migrants. What a coincidence! The owners of the next “Asia-Shop” were Vietnamese and open for a chat in Vietnamese with us, too.

Life is a succession of lessons, which must be lived to be understood. I grew up in a society where people let others live freely. Live and let live. However, my second home is Viet Nam. I was up for volunteering once more. Hence I sorted the wide range of opportunities and applied at some organizations. An important criterion of the nonpaid voluntary service is the coverage of board and lodging. The Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development of Germany launched the “weltwärts” development volunteers program in 2008. “Learning by serving” is the motto of the volunteers’ service. It promotes the exchange between North and South in this way.

“Encounters between North and South help to promote understanding for one another. And this is particularly true when participants have prepared well for these encounters. In Germany, there are several programs enabling young people to get involved in development activities and get to know other ways of life. These programs are not about giving adventurous globetrotters a travel grant. In seminars, program participants are prepared thoroughly for their encounter with the foreign country. They also look at the opportunities and limits of their own involvement and think about what they themselves and their partners abroad expect from the encounter. And even before the trip, plans are made for participants to share their experience with people in Germany after they return. The young people themselves thus become “multipliers”, sharing their experience and engaging in development education work.” (Source BMZ)

Quite a few German organizations are assigned to run this service. I have signed the contract with the child and development aid association (KUE) for 6 months. I will assist at the Vietnamese-German vocational training center of Nguyen Trai University (NTU). Our volunteer group amounts to 18 boys and girls. Sixteen run services at NTU and two at a publishing company. Each of us will stay in a host family.

I’m already looking forward to my upcoming tasks. Particularly with regard to come up to one’s expectations. I have booked the flight for the 13^th of September and arrive one day later in Ha Noi. Henceforward my blog undergoes a change in the frequency of publishing new reports. I will post once a month instead of twice as in the past. I’m out of here, will pack my suitcase and see some of you in the coming days.

I’ve got much love to both countries. My life is basically lined by luck and accomplishments. But I have written about topics which are running not yet smoothly on the other hand. Sigh, it became my main intention. Neither ones country nor culture is considered to be superior. They are different however equal. I reported about differences and picked out weak links. Others learnt from me and I learnt from my Vietnamese sphere. Thanks for your interest in my blog. Thanks for reading the posts and sharing your thoughts with me. Appreciation also goes to criticisms. The foreseen end of the blog has come.

My last days in Ha Noi passed in a flash. I met friends and was busy. Joscha and Yann left on December 30th. New Years Eve started with Italian dinner. We celebrated New Year in a bar afterwards. I did my last purchases on the following days. I started my departure day early and packed my suitcase. The taxi took me to the airport in the morning. I was able to observe the dynamically activities in the streets for last time. The traffic was catastrophic as usual. I wished to ride my motorbike again. Even so I got rid of my bike already. I was quite surprised managing check in without over luggage.

The flight had an eight hours lasting stop in Taipei. The ongoing landing in Frankfurt was astonishing. The sky was still shady at exactly 06:13 CET. Then I saw the first skyscrapers. The locals got up and illuminated their rooms. I observed the beautiful skyline and took notice to the pilot’s announcements. He informed us about the cold 3°C outside temperature. He was right; shivers ran down my spine. It was cold and my hands petrified. However, the air was fresh and clean. I took the intercity express to reach Berlin. I crossed many villages, cities and tunnels and took pleasure in the wonderful snowy scenery on the ride. The snow reflected the golden sunrays. The sky shone in light blue.

I had to change transportation several times to get to the small little village Gussow in Brandenburg. The journey to my evaluation camp ended after more than thirty hours in a remote area. I walked twenty minutes by foot throughout snow and ice. The seminar house was sited in a forest next to a lake. Then I identified well-known faces. I was looking forward to the coming five days. My organization offered us help for reintegration. The units were mostly thrilling and controversial. We exchanged stories and had a great time together. I don’t consider my point of view different to my attitude before my exchange year. But this experience has reinforced my conviction that priorities can change due to circumstances.

I will return to Viet Nam soon. The evening crowns the day; my purpose in Viet Nam is still incomplete. Work and friends are waiting for me in Ha Noi. My project was all in all a prosperous mission. I experienced intercultural exchange. Giving and receiving insight into a different culture. I learnt much. I am not a saint as you can see. My future is uncertain. Well, what was relevant yesterday, may doesn’t count today. I thank once again for the loyal readership. I wish all of you happiness, health and success.

Best and warmest regards

Michael

We had to move out of our house on the 17^th of December, due to the landlords missing backbone and omitted legal permit. The owner blithely ignored the problem which was provoked by them. They couldn’t stand the possible confrontation with the authorities. They mocked us and kept my deposit money in their pocket. They’re pathetic, but this circumstance won’t solve my case. We had to sell our furniture. I wrote around five hundred E-Mails to friends and acquaintances from Indigo. We got rid of everything with much effort and discounts of over fifty percent, sigh. Our hotel “Prince 57″ is not far from Hoan Kiem Lake. Thus the place’s very touristy. It is strange to be among many westerners again. The price level in Old Quarter is incredibly high. Everything is so expensive and inferior quality.

Our residence

Christmas in Viet Nam. Well, the shop window advertisement changed to a bizarre kitschy snowy something. I can even find cheesy Christmas pictures and banners in my Cau Giay District. The true acceptation of Christmas is mostly unknown. But at least the profitable strength of this event has been recognized during the years of western influence. For me, Christmas is best with family at home. But this year I stayed in Asia. I celebrated Christmas Eve with friends in Ha Noi. Besides I think that this New Years Eve will be different because it’s not the Vietnamese New Year. The Vietnamese New Year “Tet” is directed after the lunar calendar. Tet is at the end of January in 2009.

Actually, I miss my old residence. The people and the surrounding area. Even the noise of drilling, hammering and yelling of the construction workers. The melodies and singing voices of the mobile traders on their bicycles. The friendly but confused people who couldn’t stop looking at us mostly in combination with a murmured “Tay”. On the other hand I also miss the countless low-priced restaurants which supplied me all day long with snacks and delicious Vietnamese food. I miss the people who invited me for tea or rice wine. Even so the entertaining chats with locals. Further the laughter about my mispronounced Vietnamese. I miss the contrast. I found myself in a steadily changing neighborhood. My house represents the traditional style. It is located in a narrow, winding lane. It is high and contracted. My neighbors spoke no more than Vietnamese. I often observed the life from my roof terrace. I listened to Vietnamese voices, perceived the sound of motorbikes and watched the workers on their construction sites. I saw children playing, women washed clothes and men processed rice, vendors waited for customers, dogs romped around and here and there singing or whistling Vietnamese. Sometimes I was just quiet and studied. The life’s different a few streets ahead. There are large buildings, shopping centers and a developing amusement industry.

Around our residence

I haven’t had much holiday this year. Hence I stopped teaching at the beginning of December. But I kept work for Indigo and held workshops. VPV’s evaluation took place in a Welfare Center in Ba Vi, extended Ha Noi. It was all in all satisfactory. The time will tell if our comments, criticisms and encouragements will improve VPV’s operation process. I felt strange while telling my learners that the end of my teaching had come. I realized that I enjoyed my volunteering much. My pupils are important to me and I’d like to work longer with them. However, the subsequent weeks weren’t monotonous at all. I stayed in touch with many. I received SMS, E-Mails and calls. They invited me for drinks, parties and even marriages.

It is time to say goodbye. I leave my Vietnamese community. I have to return to Germany. The year passed too fast. I’d like to turn back the hands of time; spending additional time with friends. But then I remember one of my student’s words. She said: “I don’t say goodbye. I’d rather say, see you soon!” I agreed. Viet Nam, see you soon! Best wishes and a Happy New Year.

We haven’t got any perfect society in our world. People create their society. We are responsible for our future. Wikipedia says a society is a population of humans characterized by patterns of relationships between individuals that share a distinctive culture and/or institutions. In Germans social order I feel like in the “Matrix“. In Viet Nam rather like in “Pleasantville“. I do not belong to the perfect civilization. I am the intruder. Either I play my role perfectly, or I am myself.

I occasionally give Joscha a ride on my motorbike. A police car recently drove in front of us. Then Joscha whispered to me: „ You know what Michael; this is how I thought about Viet Nam before my arrival. I mean the police, military and a disciplinary society which I’ve seen in media before. But, you know, it is so different and distant from that.”

My understanding of teaching as voluntary employment is in intercultural exchange. I do not force norms and values on someone. I want to know different point of views and wish to learn from others. But I also talk about cultural differences. I want that my people altercate actively with their culture. I encourage and animate them to think differently. Tough for them, tough for me. Many foreign volunteers ask me why I live with such a burden. And continue saying, take it easy. I take it easy. My lessons are joyful and we joke around a lot. Everybody plays ones role in the world. Vietnamese are very good actors. They play their role perfectly. Then I think about Ronald Reagan and his unforgettable speech in Berlin. He demanded the soviet president, “Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall!” Well, I am not as important as Mr. Reagan, but I motivate my learners to tear down their walls in their minds. For sure, my way isn’t the simplest. But by this way I could experience great times.

Indigo started anew after my holiday in Laos. We attracted other people and a new Indigo administration crew started its work. They, unfortunately, never took part in Indigo before. So they are “green” and have to grow with their experiences. They are not aware of Intercultural learning. We held a workshop about cultural differences. I had the feeling to escape as soon as possible out of this. Harshly, I was confronted with the reality. We asked the attendants, as well as the Vietnamese key members, about their image of their own culture in comparison to others; as for example western cultures and the culture of their Asian neighbors. My apprehension was right again. I should be used to it. They came up with bloodcurdling stereotyped answers. All westerners eat fast food, are thoughtless and without sense of family, have no culture at all, take a shower in the mornings, live in big houses with garden and swimming pool…and so on. They are even miles apart from assuming their neighbor’s culture veridical. Or do you really think, that Japanese only drink tea when they wear a kimono?

They are well educated. Most of them study foreign trade or have graduated already. It wasn’t amazing to me that they judged about Vietnamese culture rather positively. Indeed, they are aware of misbehavior. However a change is implicit as too difficult and not even taken into consideration at all. And this is exactly the point where we have to continue working on it.

In Goethe institute was an exhibition. “Hanoi transformation” consists of photo art (different pictures than in my blog) in combination with interviews. Vietnamese of any age were interviewed. I wrote down the first interview with a retired auto mechanic. He lives in Ha Noi and is 64 years old. In my opinion, he is so damn right.

“I believe that at the moment our society is deep in a dream, or maybe it’s a nightmare. Maybe we have to first have a major disaster; maybe people have to experience the consequences themselves before we can wake up from this nightmare. The dream we are dreaming is the dream of riches.

There are these mediums that are possessed by a supernatural spirit and they speak for it… I think that today in our society the people who still believe in socialism are like these mediums – there is no truth behind it; it’s all pure hallucination. To wake these mediums from their dream, to end this hallucination…Maybe it will take someone to give them a good shake to wake them up.

It’s like a big theater piece. There are people who are not communists or socialists, but they are still wearing the costumes of the communists and socialists. And sometimes they play the role so well that they themselves believe it is real. But it’s a lie, a big lie. And they lie to themselves first, and think that they are this or they are that. And when you live so long with a big lie, and believe it, it becomes a second reality.

When I ask people here, some are high ranking officials or party members in very high positions, even they can’t tell me what this socialism is, what socialism means, they can’t give a really clear definition. Maybe that means that its value is not particularly high. Whatever! There is a group of people who use this term “socialism” for their own ends. They use it as it means to get what they want.

I would say there are three ways to look at this “socialism”. There is the first group. They know that socialism has no value anymore. They know it doesn’t exist. But they can use it; they use it to their own advantage, for their own profit, to get what they want. Then there’s the second group. They don’t know if socialism exists or not. And they are betrayed by their belief that something like socialism is somehow hanging in the air. And that we continue to try to realize it. And then there’s the third group. They know that socialism doesn’t exist. But they also don’t know how to function without it, what can then possibly remain for them. And so they hang onto it because they have breathed that air for so long. They have become accustomed to it and they think that they are themselves socialism. They are afraid of what would be left of them if socialism were taken away. Those, I think, are the three groups in Vietnamese society, the three points of view about socialism.

The dream we are dreaming is the dream of riches. The dream of being rich, the dream of having power. Maybe it’s because until now the Vietnamese in their society had practically no chance of getting rich and having power. So now everyone who gets even a little tiny bit of something in his hands tries to get as much as possible out of it. Everyone wants to be rich. This dream is so deep within them, that they are beside themselves. And that’s why they do something that is really totally crazy and irresponsible – they destroy their own living space.

I can say this because I see it in the people here who live around me. My neighbor recycles plastic polymer. Polymer releases dioxin, something that is similar to Agent Orange and highly toxic. But although his wife and his son are already ill, he doesn’t stop; he keeps making plastic because he has earned so much money with it. I bought him a book which explains all about Agent Orange. He read it. But he keeps on making plastic because he wants to be rich! And he believes that with money you can heal all illness. But you can’t.

I don’t believe that there in any chance at all that those who are in power will willingly democratize the system. But it would be wrong to make the government responsible for everything, to blame the political leadership for what happens, that wouldn’t be fair. There are many who will now say, it all comes from the communist government. But it’s not that. Those things are now the way they are – that has a lot to do with the people here. The people in Vietnam accept it: I see that the desire, the need for freedom here in Vietnam is still very, very, very limited.

The system of slavery, which ruled here for centuries, is still deeply rooted in peoples thinking. Whether educated or uneducated – they all still think that they give their work and their strength for someone who is above them. Slavery begins in our minds. And it is still very strong. And you have to realize what this means. The people must change first, before they can demand a new political system.

I see a root cause in Confucianism. Because particularly China, Vietnam and a few smaller countries are deeply influenced by Confucianism. When Confucianism was founded the world was very different. China was a great empire which had occupied many smaller countries. They needed someone who could stand for unity, someone they could all follow. And it was a system where there was always someone who must be obeyed, who was in control. And for a certain historical epoch that was good, it was a system that worked well. As a historical phenomenon. But under present conditions Confucianism as a system is very wrong. But in any case, the people in Vietnam have lived so long under its influence, have had it drummed into them for so long, that it’ s not something that will simply change overnight. It will take a very, very long time.

To change you have to wait for the time. And it is essential that people in Vietnam manage to get out now and then, out of their own world. Just to see how the world is. And to see that not everything is the same as the way they live – that things can actually be different. And they need to experience this difference themselves. Simply so that they can imagine something different for themselves.

People in Vietnam today still live in their very closed societies. They are isolated from the world. And from other societies. It’s almost as if they live in a sort of desert. They don’t come into contact with anything else. For them reality is what they hear coming out of the loudspeaker. But that comes from this system. They read only the newspapers that come from this system, they watch only the TV that comes from this system. That’s why they don’t want anything else – they don’t know anything else.

I think my greatest dream … it is, that we can freely express ourselves, as free as much as you could to be yourself. And every society, every system which tries to prevent that is a great danger. People are prevented from being themselves. In other words that means: conformity.

They lose their own identity. And that is really a great, great danger. I see this danger today in our society. That is all that I have always sought in my life. You can’t be afraid of challenges and difficulties. As long as you know what you yourself want you can overcome difficulties. And as long as you are your own person, there is really nothing to fear. But when you cannot be yourself, are not permitted to be yourself, then you run the risk of losing yourself completely.

I think the blame lies on both sides: with those who choose not to speak freely and with those who want to hinder people from speaking freely. I mean the political leaders, the government. But equally I mean the people who fearfully think only of themselves, who don’t have the courage to speak the truth. And they must bear the consequences of that. They must live with the lie…

I will go so far as to say that in our society there are many who do not have the courage to stand up for something. Because they all have this fear, like a burden on their shoulders. I see so many people to whom that apply, even high ranking politicians who have much knowledge, and many, many titles and awards and this and that…and they have no backbone, they don’t stand up straight, all because of fear and ego.

I think that the powerful are the same in all countries:  they want to have everything under control. And that’s why people have to look after themselves.”